There's a PUZZLE on the MONEY

I never thought learning a new money system (or several) would cause me consternation.  Okay, I didn't have that much trouble, but there was a bit of an adjustment.

First I had to get used to using Euros.  As you can see, Euro bills (or notes) are much more colorful than American dollars.  And whereas U.S. currency separates dollars from cents, the term "Euros" can refer to notes or coins.

There are 1 Euro and 2 Euro coins, which are both useful and dangerous.  So easy to spend quickly, but also so great to have on hand when you want a soda or candy bar.  I love that these two coins are two-toned; they're much easier to pick out of a handful of change.  The EU money system also has both 2 cent and 1 cent coins - I can't help but be reminded of author John Green and his hatred of pennies.

My favorite part of the EU system coins is that the backs bear the symbol of the country that minted them.  You can hopefully see the differences in this picture - I'm not even sure which coins come from where.  I saw mostly Irish Euro coins, but I think that's because there's less travel between Ireland and mainland Europe than other European countries.

I felt like an old pro using Euros... and then I had to switch to the British Pound Sterling.

Gosh, Brits, why did you have to be obstinate and refuse to adopt the Euro?

I'll tell you why, it's probably because they love their queen.

I mean, look at her face on all that money!  Queen Elizabeth the Second is on every note and every coin.  It's slightly overwhelming.  I wonder if they'll have to re-mint all their money when she dies; they haven't had to think about it for 60 years after all.

You see the big copper coin?  That's the 2 pence coin.  But I daresay you use a 2 pence EVEN LESS than a penny (pence is plural for penny, btw).  So why is it so big?!  And why is the 5 pence coin, the silver one right below the 2 pence, so tiny?  You might actually use a 5 pence!  And I hope you can see that the 50 pence coin, the largest silver one, is not quite a circle.  The 50 pence and the 20 pence coins are 7-sided (heptagonal).  No idea why.  Wikipedia tells me that these two coins were introduced in the last 50 years to switch British coinage to a decimal system and do away with shillings, farthings, and half-pennys (ha'pennys, anyone?).  I guess that makes sense.  Yet again, an area of history you never knew needed to be studied.

But the coolest thing about the money is this: there was a significant redesign effort in 2008 for the backs of the British coinage.  The designs chosen by the Mint were by Matthew Dent, and they featured parts of the Royal Shield.  They were designed so that, when arranged, the six coins worth less than 1 pound make up the whole shield.

WHOOOOOOOAAAAAAAA my mind is blown. 

I've been trying to collect them all for a picture, but only got four out of six so far.

I think this is just about the coolest money I've ever seen.

A Look Back at Dublin

I never got to post my pictures or stories from Dublin, so today it's time for a rewind.

I stayed overnight at Trinity College, which would have been great if they hadn't put me literally as far from the center of campus as possible.  I was actually across the street from the rest of campus.  I was already feeling tired and lonely, so this wasn't exactly the best time to be isolated.  Upon returning from an evening mass on Sunday, I promptly went to bed with what I think was a baby migraine.

(The irony of going to bed at 8:30pm while staying in a major European city is not beyond me.)

First order of business for Monday morning: the Book of Kells, right at Trinity College itself.

The line (excuse me, the queue) at 9:30am, when the exhibit opens - already super long!

Like most museums, no pictures allowed.  But oh. my. heavens. the Book of Kells was just astounding.  The Book is a collection of the four Christian gospels in manuscript form, many of which contain very detailed illuminations.  Illuminated manuscripts were made to glorify the Word of God on the page.  The Book of Kells is known especially for highly detailed designs - it seems almost impossible that a human hand could design, draw, and paint to that level of precision.  The illuminations are gorgeous and fascinating, and if you click here, you can see several images from the Book.  I could have stayed there for hours looking at the manuscripts themselves, or even at images of the illuminations.

Above the exhibit and Books themselves is the Long Room, which is easily the largest collection of valuable books in Ireland.  The Old Library also has the legal right to own a copy of every book published in the  British Isles.  I don't think I can explain how emotional I got when I walked in there.  I recorded a little bit of a sound-seeing tour while there, because, of course, no pictures allowed.  Except..........

Shhhhh, don't tell.  But seriously, this doesn't do it justice.  Go look up pictures on Google and be amazed.

Clearly, my time in Dublin was much improved from the previous night.  After reaching cloud nine at the library, I left Trinity College and began my wandering.

I came first to Dublin Castle, which is, wouldn't you know it, an old building.  The grounds had an interesting Celtic design cut into the green (you can sort of see it behind me and Wishbone).  But for a librarian, the hidden gem at the Dublin Castle is the Chester Beatty Library.  Oh my word - again, it's difficult to explain how amazed and enthralled I was.  This isn't just a library - it's an incredible museum of the history of the book and print culture (this is a legitimate area of study for librarians, by the way).  The library had papyrus manuscripts on display from the gospels and Paul dating back to the 2nd century!  Those aren't just anywhere!  There were MORE illuminated manuscripts here, beautifully carved Koran covers, Japanese block prints, displays of book-making techniques and tools, and SO MUCH MORE.  There was also a small temporary exhibit on a restored Japanese scroll story, The Story of the Bamboo Cutter.  Incredibly fascinating, especially for someone who has a love of both Japanese culture and books in any format.  And I really did stumble onto this place by mistake.  I am so, so grateful for that happy accident.  This book lover was flying high, let me tell you.

The Chester Beatty Library - an absolute must-see in Dublin!

By the way, Chester Beatty himself is a truly interesting fellow.  What a life he had!

I made my way over to St. Stephen's Green, and ducked into the mall on the other side of the street to use the restroom and find some food.  I saw this sign as I walked in...

(This font is everywhere, and I LOVE IT.)

Musical Youth Foundation presents Instrumental Art Exhibit?  Yes please!  Time for some awesome pictures.

Meat guitar!

"Song from the Woods" by Giovana Medeiros

"Music as Medicine" by James Carroll

See the word "Sound" in the middle?

"Almond Train" by Sean Regan

"Another Steel" by Rob O'Brien... those are staples, btw.

"Musical Youth" by Stephnie James - my favorite, only 175 Euros. :-)

So yeah.  It's like the universe knew exactly what makes me happier than all get out and laid it all before me in a single day.  Happier than a pig in a poke was I (insert any other idiom for being extremely happy and content).  I stayed at the mall long enough to eat, use the internet for 20 free minutes, and pick up a few souvenirs, then I was off to walk St. Stephen's Green and pray my rosary.  I also recorded a few thoughts about cultural differences between the states and Ireland:

(Sorry, it's an odd thumbnail)

And to top off a truly fantastic day, I pretty much tripped over the tucked away little church, St. Therese, which I mentioned in an earlier post, and I was in time for daily mass!

I left Ireland on the best possible note, though after such a great day, I almost didn't want to go!  There was so much that I didn't see in Dublin - and oddly enough, I didn't revisit any place we'd visited on our family trip 10 years ago (I think).

But of course, equally amazing things were waiting for me in London, and better yet, amazing people.  Even the best day has to end so the adventure can continue - I can't wait to see what tomorrow holds!

The Magical Mary Poppins

For two years after college, I was a part-time nanny to some really wonderful kids.  I became a wee bit obsessed with Mary Poppins.  I dressed up as Mary for Halloween (thanks mom!), and I finally read the original book by P.L. Travers.  You might already know this, but the character Mary Poppins written by Travers is significantly more strict and sniffy (and vain - who would have guessed?) than the beloved Julie Andrews movie-version.  Travers actually held out the movie rights from Disney for seventeen years, and even then, according to author Melanie Wentz, "she didn't care for the results, saying she was "disturbed at seeing it so externalized, so oversimplified, so generalized."" (p. 136).

Either way, Mary Poppins makes magical things happen, and she treats them like the rest of us treat the act of brushing our teeth.  I must say that I feel surrounded by magic these days - an inexplicable magic of things beloved.

More on Ms. Poppins in a minute.  For now, we go to St. Paul's Cathedral.

See Queen Ann in the corner?  She has a pigeon on her shoulder.

St. Paul's Cathedral is... amazing, incredible, impressive, staggering, and in every sense of the word, awe-some.  We weren't allowed to take pictures inside, so you'll have to take my word or make a point to go yourself.  Anyway, we made the climb up some 530 stairs to the top of the dome and were rewarded by some great aerial views.

I can't quite believe these pictures - the people and cars look like miniatures to me.  I know there's a fancy camera trick to make that more pronounced, but I don't have a fancy camera.

St. Paul's Cathedral (the central place of worship for the Anglican church) is a thing of stone, wood, and glass that can move you to tears.  Clearly, it is more than the sum of its parts.  There's something else... something intangible that pervades every inch.  And it's not just churches - I felt the same thing when I entered the Old Library at Trinity College (proof that I'm in the right profession).  These places aren't just famous because everyone agrees they're famous.  I think that this is partially from the great love the British people have for St. Paul's.  Earlier in the day at the Museum of London, a bit of oral history related a man's memory of the cathedral during World War II: during the worst of the London bombings, the dome of St. Paul's stood, and it gave the people hope.  The cathedral is unique in so many ways, and the British are proud that it is theirs.  

When I was a child, I was never crazy about the song "Feed the Birds" from Mary Poppins.  As an adult, however, the song has nestled down deep in my heart.  I sang it to my little charges (remember, I was a nanny).  It encapsulates the nurture and comfort that a mother feels for her children.  There's a lot of love in the song: the Sherman brothers (composers) recount playing it for Walt Disney almost every Friday afternoon in his office.  And, of course, the Bird Woman loves her birds like no one else does.  I just love the way the music swells and flows with violins, bell, and a choir, yet maintains a simple melody.

I can see now that the song fits so well with the cathedral.  The Brits love St. Paul's, and St. Paul's is there to offer comfort and hope.  Mary Poppins is loved because she cares for Jane and Michael Banks so completely.  She's the nanny everyone wishes they had.  Mary might have magic to talk to animals and pop in and out of sidewalk pictures, but that's not why we love her.  St. Paul's might be an amazing architectural feat, but that's not the only reason people come from all over the world to see it.

I don't know how I missed it, but I did.  What I've felt isn't magic at all - it's love.

Sources: Wentz, Melanie. (2002). Once Upon a Time in Great Britain. St. Martin's Press: New York.
Sherman, Richard M. and Robert B. (1964). "Interview with the Sherman Brothers." Mary Poppins Original Movie Soundtrack. Disney.

Death and Virtue at the Tower of London

The story I'd like to talk about today is that of St. Thomas More.  Non-Catholics may drop the 'Saint' title from his name, but his story still stirs our hearts and minds nonetheless.  In fact, the movie adaptation of the end of his life, A Man for All Seasons, won the Academy Award for Best Picture in 1966.  I'm sad to say that I haven't seen the movie.  If you haven't either, Fr. Robert Barron gives a much better recap and analysis than I could.

Thomas More stood up to Henry VIII when the king asked English clergy to recognize him as the head of the church.  More tried to resign his position as Chancellor of England quietly, and his resignation was eventually accepted.  What I love most about this bit of history is that More did everything he could to avoid scandal for others - he did not attend Anne Boleyn's coronation and continued to declare his civic duty to King Henry.  His religious duty still lay with God and the pope, however, and because that was unacceptable to Henry, More was tried and executed as a traitor to the crown.

From April 18 to July 6 in the year 1534, More was held in the Bell Tower of the Tower of London (pictured on right).  He was visited by family and friends, and by all accounts, retained his sense of good nature and peaceful spirit to the end.  More met his execution with fortitude and bravery.  To some, his memory remains that of a traitor; to others, including myself, he died the death of a martyr.

As I mentioned previously, I'm frequently finding myself an unintentional pilgrim to places of religious devotion.  I actually had no idea that the Tower of London was the resting place of the body of St. Thomas More (his head is located elsewhere).  Yet there I was, standing below the tower where he spent his final days, and walking the path that he tread to his death on Tower Hill.  St. Thomas More is a model for those of us who are asked to defend our faith when we say a quiet but firm 'no' in opposition to society.  We so greatly need his example today.

As I write, I am powerfully aware that, on this night 478 years ago, St. Thomas More was keeping vigil for the sunrise of his death; or rather, his rebirth into eternal life.  More was executed on the morning of July 6, 1534.  The collision of the past and the present is, at times, truly startling.

St. Thomas More, pray for us.

Chapel Royal of St. Peter ad Vincula, containing the bones of St. Thomas More.

Our Funny Flat

Tonight, I'm part of a scene which will become very familiar.  My three flatmates and I have our computers stationed at different points in our living room (actually quite large), working on our pictures, videos, and blogs for the course that brings us to London.  It's actually quite comforting; studying/working is pretty much the same wherever you go.

Our flat is actually quite posh, considering the building is from the 17th/18th century.  The FSU Study Centre is number 99, but we actually live in number 101.  We're on the left, 99 is on the right (with some of my lovely classmates):

We actually have a flat screen TV, two couches, and a very nice dining table.  Our kitchen is a sight lovely to my eyes: fitted with new appliances (including 2 fridges) and sparkling clean.  We've got this great big flat to split between 4 of us - plenty of room.

The bathrooms... are a slightly different matter.  The shower alone baffles the mind (especially at 7am when one is less than decent), and the doors have this funny habit of closing very loudly on their own.  Did I mention that we climb 3 flights of stairs to get to our little home?  Including this staircase, which I am quite convinced will collapse while I'm on it one day.

Yes, it really does slant like that.  But I exaggerate - it's very safe.

Even in just two days, I am absolutely certain that I will enjoy getting to know all of the other women doing this program.  There has been a great deal of nerdy talk, talk of great beer, and loud laughter.  We probably seem obnoxious to the Londoners, actually - but one of the great things about the American spirit is the freedom to enjoy life and experiences with gusto.  Yup, we laugh loud and talk loud and gesture wildly, but by George, we're having a good time.

A Tour of Churches

I've noticed that a majority of my pictures are from my visits to churches and religious sites - not surprising if you know me.  I kind of like the idea of turning this trip into a multi-site pilgrimage.  First, I went to the Cathedral in Galway.

Gorgeous stone interior.

And the arches!  The arches!  I loved it.

A little prayer to St. Joseph for vocations... okay, mostly my own.

I went to Galway on Thursday, the day before the Feast of St. Peter and St. Paul.  Here's the window of St. Peter receiving the keys from Christ.

I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity for Eucharistic Adoration, but I was also really intrigued by the flame-like sculpture behind the tabernacle. It's made of a reflective metal and lit from beneath.  Very interesting.

Moving forward to a sneak peek of Kylemore Abbey... more on the history of that place later.  All you need to know for now is that there's a gothic-style chapel on the grounds.

Stained glass above the tabernacle in the southern alcove - the virtues from left to right are: Fortitude, Faith, Charity, Hope, and Chastity.

Elsewhere on the grounds, there is a small grotto built for the Virgin Mary, modeled after the grotto at Lourdes.

This statue is (I think) a smaller version of the Sacred Heart statue at the top of the hill/cliff/mountain above the Abbey.  It was required to book a hiking guide a day in advance to reach the big statue, so no mountain climbing for me.

And finally Dublin.  I arrived by bus back in Dublin on a Sunday, and I had made sure that there was an evening mass at the cathedral ahead of time.  Finding the cathedral was... a bit of an experience, and unfortunately, it appears to be in a rougher part of the city (just north of Trinity college across the River Liffey).  At least, the whole building was surrounded by an iron fence, which was only open about 45 min before mass.  It's quite smashed in between the surrounding buildings.  And the architecture is more reminiscent of a Greek or Roman temple, rather than a Catholic cathedral.  Still, it was a huge relief and blessing to be connected to the universal church in the celebration of the mass - I didn't care where I was, so long as I was at mass!

The next day while wandering around Dublin, I quite literally stumbled upon a beautiful church off of Grafton Street, Clarendon Street (St. Teresa's) Church.  I was in time for daily mass!  Oh, what a joy to return to a place of rest after a very full day.  My pictures don't quite do the place justice, though I do love the Carmelite statue of the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child.

The tour of churches will continue, no doubt!  They may be a bit harder to find in London, but that certainly won't stop an urban pilgrim like me.

The Hills of Connemara

You should click the video below to listen to The Hills of Connemara recorded by Gaelic Storm as you look at these photos.

Check out the mist over those mountains!  And here's one view of the lovely Tully Cross.

That's right, Tully Cross has real thatched roof cottages.

Ireland: an island that contains lakes that contains islands.

And this right here is the Atlantic Ocean - incredible!  I walked there from the Wallace house.

The Connemara countryside is really amazing.  Later in the week, Melissa drove me through an area just south-east of Tully Cross.  The sun was shining, not a cloud in the sky, and the mountains towered above us.  The road wasn't carved out of the mountains, like the interstates of the U.S., but rolls, dips, and bends with the land.  Riding in a car going about 40 kilometers an hour was like riding a roller coaster!  That was a day when my camera batteries had died, so I don't have any pictures.  I hope the memory of that car ride never leaves me.